Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
Gateway to the Alpilles
Saint-Étienne-du-Grès is a French commune located in the Bouches-du-Rhône department, in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. It is known for its historical heritage and typical Provençal landscapes.
To discover
in Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
5 reasons to visit Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
Its church dedicated to Saint-Étienne
Its typical Provençal landscapes
Its picturesque alleys and architecture
Its location, close to the Alpilles and other towns
Its local market, showcasing the best of Provençal gastronomy
On vacation in Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
Saint-Étienne-du-Grès is a charming village in Provence. Visiting its old village and narrow streets is very enjoyable, as is exploring the nearby Alpilles.
Summer Holidays
In the Laurade Park, there is a large stone sculpture that vaguely resembles a human form. Called “La Mourgue” (from the Latin “Morga,” which gave rise to “moniale” in French), it is believed to be a pre-Roman pagan deity, likely associated with fertility. Several authors, including Frédéric Mistral, have written about it.
Many mythologists have tried to decipher the true nature of the deity. Among the various nicknames for the rock are: “Petrified Virgin,” “Neolithic Mother Goddess,” “Anthropomorphic Menhir,” “Morgane the Solar Fairy,” and even “Gallo-Roman Priapus” (a male god, most often represented by… a phallus).
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The Grand Mas (mas were often farms or residences of large estates) is a Renaissance-style house, easily recognizable by its turret attached to one of the façades.
The bread oven inside has been listed as a historical monument since 1980 (as well as the walls and roof of the building). In 2020, the rest of the park, including its path and olive grove, was also recognized as historical heritage.
Golf Courses Nearby
Places to Visit in Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
The village of Saint-Étienne-du-Grès itself doesn’t have much to offer. However, its surroundings are rich in attractions! Let’s try to highlight the most interesting sites within the village.
Family Vacation
The Moulin de la Croix was an olive oil mill that ceased production in 1936. Sold to the Calot family in 1974, it was used as a storage space for their machinery. However, in 2013, Philippe Calot, a descendant of the buyers, decided to try to bring the mill back into operation. Despite the passage of time, the mill still had all its mechanisms in working order.
Philippe created an association and, with the help of his family, managed to clear out the mill. By bringing in a horse and persuading local olive growers to donate no less than 500 kg of fruit, the association succeeded in producing and distributing pure olive oil, made using the same technique as over a century ago.
You can visit with your family to discover the specifics of a “moulin à sang” (a mill powered by human or animal force). Feeling strong? You can even participate in the work of the presses and proudly watch the extraction of the flower of oil (a mixture of oil, water, and pulp). After a bit of decantation, you will get your own oil created with your own muscle power!
Romantic Getaway
Situated on top of a hill, a little away from the village, is the Chapelle Notre-Dame-du-Château. Built in the second half of the 11th century, it was expanded with additional buildings in 1859. A legend surrounds its name:
Notre-Dame du Château is sometimes referred to as “La Belle Briançonne” because of a monk who, in 1350, brought back a wooden statue from Briançon. This statue, depicting the Virgin with Child (also known as “The Madonna”), was paraded in a grand procession every year on the eve of Ascension to Tarascon, where it stayed for 40 days. This story was corroborated by documents from 1777.
A beautiful legend, though it is likely false: the name actually comes from “Brégançon” or “Bergançon,” references to its elevated position. This explanation is supported by documents from 1213, more than 500 years before those mentioning the procession.
Despite this, it is an intriguing chapel to visit, which was added to the list of historic monuments in 1926.
Getting to Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
The village is bordered by the D32 and D32A roads.
To visit Provence, the most recommended airports are Marseille, Montpellier, and Nice.
From Cavaillon Train Station, you can take bus line 704 to reach Saint-Étienne-du-Grès. The nearest TGV station is Avignon TGV.
The Voie Aurelia, which allows you to explore the Alpilles by bike, passes near Saint-Étienne-du-Grès.
Nearby Towns to Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
- Tarascon: About 6 kilometers.
- Fontvieille: About 6 kilometers.
- Beaucaire: About 7 kilometers.
- Maillane: About 7 kilometers.
- Paradou: About 8 kilometers.
Time in Provence has selected the best restaurants in the region for you.
Saint-Étienne-du-Grès, History, Traditions, and Culture
In the 6th century BC, the nomadic tribes living around what is now the village settled down and built a castrum (a fortified wooden oppidum) where the Notre-Dame-du-Château chapel stands today. Research suggests there was likely an even older Roman structure at this site.
In 1196, a Templar commandery established itself in the new Saint-Thomas-des-Templiers chapel. In 1420, the first pilgrimage to Notre-Dame-du-Château was recorded, reviving interest in a local and pagan festival dedicated to Brigantia (or Brigitte), the goddess of heights.
In 1874, the village opened its own railway, which was regularly extended until 1887.
On April 12, 1935, the village was officially recognized by the State (until then, the small settlement was considered part of Tarascon). In 1950, the station and railway officially closed.
The village’s name combines that of the proto-martyr Stephen (or Stephanos in Greek, meaning “the crown”) and the word “grès,” meaning “rocky place.”
Stephen was a Jew, a close friend of Jesus, and one of the first seven deacons. He was condemned for publicly speaking the name of God, which was considered heresy. Called before the Sanhedrin (an assembly of 71 wise men judging religious crimes), he began using rhetoric that none of his accusers could fault. But suddenly, losing his composure, he insulted the assembly, and enraged, they dragged him out of Jerusalem and stoned him. Thus, he became the first martyr of Christianity.
It is commonly believed that Luke the Evangelist, author of the account of his execution, likely conflated two stories: it is implausible that a legal trial and judgment turned into what was essentially a barely disguised murder.
A humorous anecdote involves the Notre-Dame-du-Château chapel: in 2005 (or 2007), the local priest, Michel Cicculo, was tried for destroying a fresco inside the chapel. Created by artist Jacques Descordes, the fresco depicted the four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) in their symbolic forms: the angel, the lion, the bull, and the eagle. Dissatisfied with the result, after six months of work, the priest repainted everything overnight. His justification was that the angel had an exposed chest and the bull had “complete attributes.” Additionally, the fresco was not at all respectful of religious traditions but resembled more of a “Walt Disney vision.”
Condemned to pay €50,000 in damages, the priest appealed, arguing that no document concerning the fresco had been signed, as the artist was a friend of the mayor.
Acquitted, Father Cicculo demanded that the mayor lose all rights to future modifications of the chapel, which the administrative court granted, even requiring the municipality to pay €1,500 to the parish.
The priest passed away on June 27, 2023.
